The “Souless” Senda to Carrion

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I was slow getting going this morning and Greg took off ahead of me. There was a group of Italian ladies, perhaps 10 or more, who must have come in during the later hours last night. They were all walking together with small daypacks and walking sticks. They asked me if I would take a picture of them all together. After doing this, I found the way out of town and passed the Iglesia San Martin while obtaining some good pics of this 12th century Romanesque church.


Soon I was crossing the busy A-67 and starting out on the “Souless Senda”, a boring crushed granite path along side the main road heading west towards Carrion de los Condes. At Poblacion de Campos, there is an interesting playground where Greg was waiting.

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There is also a small bridge across the rio Ucieza and a choice for the pilgrim to make about the route ahead.  An itinerant pastor was on hand near the playground and the Erita de San Miguel to stamp our passports and wish us well. After having a snack in the playground, Greg and I decided to follow the more direct route and stay on the Senda alongside the road.

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After a few hours we arrived in Villalcazar de Sirga and passed by another magnificent Templar church of Santa Maria la Virgin Blanca.

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Three miles later we got to Carrion de Los Condes in the early afternoon. There was good amount of Sunday church activity in this bustling town.  We wound our way through all of this to the far end of town and crossed the rio Carrion to San Zoilo where we found our hotel located in the Real Monasterio de San Zoilo. This was a beautiful hotel that quickly lived up to the promotional material we had seen from our notes. The room was luxurious and the bathroom spacious, two things that were greatly appreciated after a long slog along that Senda.

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Greg and I decided to venture back across the river to the main town to see if we could find a restaurant that was open early so that we could eat. This was a lost cause. There were no mercados open either, to stock up for tomorrow, so it looked as if we would be “stuck” with the accomodations at the hotel. Back within the confines of San Zoilo, we found the bar and enjoyed a couple of beers.  While sitting in the bar, I first began to notice a soreness on my right heel that I feared was a new blister developing. Upon returning to the room, I discovered that this was indeed the case. Favoring my left foot for the blister there, I was walking un-naturally and had developed a new blister on the other foot. Not good news. I re-treated the blisters as best as I could and joined Greg in the lobby while we waited for dinner hour.  By the time the restaurant opened up it was 8:00 pm and we were starved. To our surprise, the French couple we had met in Hornillos was already seated at the next table, so we had a pleasant reunion with them.  Soon we were surprised to see Linda who was staying in the hotel, not eating dinner, but was anxious to track us down and say goodbye. This we did and wished her well. After ordering dinner, The Irish couple from Hornillos, who had let us use their phone entered the dining room and sat near us. We were happy to see them also. They were on their way to Calzadilla the next day so we agreed to hook up there the following evening. Back in the room that night, we opened the window to let in some natural breeze, but there was a wedding party going on down in the bar/patio area that was playing techno-pop non stop. That was driving crazy and we had to shut the window in order to get to sleep.

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